Harvest Moon On Android
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It can be very useful to understand how to photograph the Moon with your digital camera. Sometimes, you might want to capture the Moon when it is full and beautiful, while other times you might want to capture an interesting event like a supermoon or Lunar Eclipse.
Despite all the challenges, photographing the Moon is a great learning experience, especially if you are willing to experiment a little. You will learn all sorts of techniques along the way: reducing camera shake in low-light conditions, dealing with wind and heat wave distortion for distant subjects, manually setting your camera, and even incorporating the moon into other photos (with more than just the moon as your subject)!
If you want to find out the current moon phase, take a look at this page, courtesy of TimeandDate.com, where you can find out what phase the moon is currently in. You can also calculate what it will be by picking the date from the bottom of the page. Other apps can do this as well, which we will go over later in this article.
In addition, you will need to do proper weather and location planning for photographing a close-up of the moon. Your best option might be to get out of town and travel to a remote location with very little light and air pollution, preferably at a higher elevation.
Weather planning is especially very important, as discussed in the next section. You do not want to deal with atmospheric haze due to dust, smoke and moisture in the air, and you certainly do not want to deal with any heat waves either. These things destroy the structure of the moon, making it very difficult to preserve any details.
Proper planning is very important if you want to end up with a beautiful image of the Moon. If there is a rare event, such as a Supermoon, a Lunar Eclipse, or a combination of different lunar events, you might need to take a bit more time to organize and plan.
I personally find colder nights to be ideal for close-up moon photography for this reason. However, cold temperatures make it difficult to stand for prolonged periods of time outside and drain camera batteries faster.
Once you scout the location, find out exactly where the moon will rise and set, you can prepare your camera gear and test it out (the camera gear and all the camera settings are going to be covered next). Once you get it all ready to go, make sure to test the camera gear and the settings beforehand.
Not all cameras and lenses are ideal for all types of moon photography. If you have a smartphone or a basic digital camera with a wide-angle lens, you will be limited to photographing the Moon as part of your composition.
The only thing to keep in mind, is that teleconverters negatively impact lens sharpness and decrease its maximum aperture. For example, if you mount a 1.4x teleconverter to the Nikon 300mm f/4 PF lens, it will essentially become a 420mm f/5.6 lens. Due to significant loss of sharpness when using 2.0x teleconverters, I recommend against their use for moon photography.
So in this particular case, the D3500 is going to be more preferable than the D750 to get a close-up of the Moon. Keep this in mind when evaluating cameras for moon photography. A cheaper, smaller sensor camera might be a better choice at the end of the day!
If an interchangeable lens camera with a telephoto lens is out of your budget, consider getting a point-and-shoot camera with a high magnification zoom lens such as the Nikon P900. Thanks to its insane 24-2000mm full-frame equivalent lens, the Nikon P900 is one of the best cameras on the market for moon photography today. With its price tag of $600, it gives expensive super telephoto lenses a run for its money!
If you shoot with a very long lens, you should totally read my advanced article on how to stabilize your tripod. Trust me, you will need every tool in your arsenal to make a blur-free image of the moon at focal lengths above 300mm, especially if you have a shaky tripod or unstable tripod head.
In addition to the tripod, you will need a solid tripod head that makes it easy to readjust the camera position when the Moon moves. Keep in mind that the Moon moves a lot, especially at higher magnifications, so you will be constantly adjusting your camera to keep the moon centered.
To photograph just the moon by itself, without any objects in the foreground, you will need a long telephoto lens like explained above to magnify the moon and try to fill as much of the frame as possible. With your telephoto lens mounted on your camera, secure the two on your tripod and point at the moon. When it comes to camera settings, including shutter speed, aperture and ISO, here is what I recommend for general use:
The above aperture and shutter speeds are derived from the Looney 11 rule, which is not necessarily very accurate for moon photography, as I explain further down below. I recommend starting with the above settings and adjusting the shutter speed based on the brightness of the moon.
Most DSLR cameras will be able to autofocus on the moon this way. If autofocus does not work, try to put the focus point on the edge of the Moon and give it another shot. If your camera is still struggling, you might need to turn off autofocus and move the focus ring manually until the Moon looks sharp.
As I have already pointed out, a Supermoon occurs when the Moon is new or full, and it is at its closest proximity to our planet. If the skies are clear and you are lucky to see the Supermoon, why not photograph it?
The biggest issues with using a smartphone or a tablet are precise focus and exposure control, as well as inability to zoom in tight enough to get a close-up shot of the Moon. Smartphones and tablets are typically designed with a single wide-angle lens, which is not particularly suitable for moon photography, as explained below.
I have a 5Ds camera and a 100-400mm 4.5-5.6L IS II lens. I should get a 2X II extender and was wondering if that setup is good enough to get high quality pictures of the moon. If the the least amount of megapixels to get a quality image is 6, that means that I could crop applying a 3x digital zoom. 50.6Mp/(3^2) = 5.6Mp. The 3x digital zoom (crop) would give me: At 400mm it would give me the equivalent of 1200mm At 400mm with the 1.4x III extender, that would be 1680mm At 400mm with the 2X II extender, it would be 2.400mm
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